大煮乾絲

  2004年5月29日,週六,電視臺播出一條新聞,說是上海已經連續五天的平均氣溫超過22度了,標幟著氣象學上已經正式進入了夏天。上海的夏天並不好受,非但白天烈日當頭,即使半夜也是熱風習習,加之潮濕的環境,讓人的感覺整天就是濕濕熱熱的、慵慵懶懶的。

  連續的高溫,會讓人體力不支、精神痿糜、口舌無味、食欲不振,中醫上稱之為疰夏。疰夏是相當常見的病症,有許多人根本不以為然,覺得既然胃口不好,就少喫點,正好可以減肥;也有些人,因為口中苦澀,便就些榨菜、醬菜等偏辣偏咸的下飯。其實,這樣的想法無異飲鳩止渴;因為夏天出汗多,體力透支厲害,加之日長夜短,實際人體運動的時間和頻率都較冬天要大,夏天更應注意營養的均衡與搭配。另外,雖說夏日喫點有鹽份的東西,可以加快汗液的排泄,但臨睡之前不宜攝入過多的鹽份,否則會造成心臟、肝臟以及泌尿系統的負荷過大,有百害而無一益,俗諺「早晨鹽湯比參湯,晚上鹽湯賽砒礵」即是一證。

  大煮乾絲,就是一道既清爽,又有營養的夏日佳餚。乾絲,就是豆腐乾絲,大煮呢,就是放在許多水裏煮,這道看似容易的菜,其實並不簡單,乃是維揚菜系中的看家菜,也是上海新鎮江和梅龍鎮的招牌菜。此菜,鮮香撲鼻,火腿和開洋的鮮味滲入到極細的豆腐乾絲中,絲絲入扣,然而不見一滴油花,沒有一毫豆腥,乃是膾不厭細的代表作。

  豆腐乾,挑選的學問可大,菜場裏一般有兩種豆腐乾,一種是淡褐色的,俗稱「茶乾」,另一種是白色的,俗稱「香乾」,這道菜要用的是香乾。香乾要挑形狀方整有彈性,顏色潔白微黃的,而且還要聞一聞,要有豆香而無豆腥的,才是上品;甚至可以在買的時候,掰開一塊看一看,質量好的香乾,斷面平整、均勻,而質次的香乾由於混入了豆渣,或是濾得不透,斷面參差不齊,一煮就爛,要不得。

  買來的香乾看上去象是一塊小香乾疊在一塊大香乾上面,其實那是製作時候的壓痕,為了做成後分割方便。香乾先要切成薄片,術語叫「片」,上海話稱之為「批」。批香乾之前,要把「大香乾」的四邊切去,使之變成一塊完整的立方體。批香乾是件非常有趣的事,也是練刀工的絕好機會,刀也挺有講究,最好用方的片刀,刀上可以先沾點水,或是用棉紙蘸油把刀面擦勻,這樣可以防止片出的香乾薄片沾在刀面上而弄破。批的時候,右手執刀,將刀橫放,刀面朝上,左手按住香乾,右手將刀隨著砧板平行的角度切入香乾,一刀到底,批出一片來。批的時候,注意刀面要始終和砧板保持平行,而且一刀就是一刀,要一氣呵成,不能拖泥帶水,否則批出的香乾厚薄不均。

  以前,一直聽說新錦江的特級廚師有兩大絕活,其中一個就是能把香乾橫批十二片,另一絕活是將一塊嫩豆腐切成如火柴杆大小的豆腐絲來,而且根根粗細長短一樣,沒有斷的。後者我沒有嘗試,這批香乾的活,我已經從一開始的批成十片到了現在可以批成十三片了。將香乾片好之後,疊在一起切成絲,絲當然也是越細越好,一刀貼著一切,可以切上百來刀。這樣,一片香乾,就可以切出千來條乾絲,因此,三四片香乾便能製成滿滿的一碗。乾絲切好後,過水待用。

  光有乾絲還不行,還要有火腿和開洋,火腿要用上方,只用瘦肉,也要切成極細的絲(關於火腿的挑選和使用,以前說到過,不再贅述),先淨待用。開洋,是將海蝦煮熟後,再曬乾,然去去殼製成的。好的開洋,色紅而亮,聞之有腥香,嘗之鮮而不澀,手摸上去,乾燥又有彈性;質量差的開洋,濕而咸,有腥臭味,用手一捏即碎。開洋,各大南貨店均有出售,按質論價,從十幾元到上百元不等;開洋依等級、產地以及捕撈時間的不同,還有金鉤、春紅、秋紅、鴿子腳等稱法,當然,衹有老饕才能分辨了。開洋上的殼,有時會沒有剝盡,可以用水稍浸後剝去。這道菜的開洋有兩種用法,如果追求口感的話,應該將開洋扯成絲;而要是想追求色面的話,就將開洋原只使用。

  大煮乾絲要有去了油的雞湯煮,湯要多,火要大,故曰「大煮」,等湯沸之後,放入乾絲,稍事攪散,再放入火腿絲和開洋絲,煮一個小時,加鹽即可裝盆。裝盆的時候,將乾絲、火腿絲和開洋絲撩出瀝乾湯汁,放在一個小碗裏以成形,然後將小碗倒扣在一個淺湯盆裏,掀去小碗,在陷起湯汗淋上,待盆底湯汁有一指深即可。
此菜鮮而不膩,淡雅而不落單調,若是嫌製作麻煩,也可以買厚百頁,叫攤主用壓面機絞成絲,便可省去片切香乾之煩,衹是口感稍差,另外家中若無雞湯,可用清水代替,更顯清淡。

我的上海,我的家

This page is still under construction. For the information of Shanghai,
please visit That’s
Shanghai
, and I suggest zSurvey for the restaurant information.

Dear friends,

I am Yule Show, a world walker. When I travel abroad, I always introduce Shanghai to my friends over the world. Shanghai is such a beautiful city; I want systematically collect enough information and combine them into a useful non-governmental tourist guide. This tourist guide will be like Lonely Planet books including all the information about hotel, transportation, hospitals, services, entertainment, bars, pubs, communications, convenient shops, malls and etc. Actually, Lonely Planet already has a Shanghai guide, but it is 1998 version. Five years are more than too long for Shanghai.

I want your contribution. Such contribution can be in any format and please sent to my mailbox: yuleshow@yahoo.com. English, first hand and pictures embedded article is preferred. You can write any of your experience, your thinking, your view and your understanding of Shanghai. All the information will be put on the www.yuleshow.com web site which is my personal non-profit web site.

Thanks a trillion in advance, I am looking forward to hear from you.

Yule Show
www.yuleshow.com

English vs. Chinese?

English vs. Chinese, 到底如何选择?

  這幾天猶豫中,到底是把三個網站並成一個呢,還是繼續保持現狀;關於博客呢,也在想到底是繼續用英文寫呢,還是改成中文。用英文的話,有許多國外的朋友可以看到,而改成中文則寫起來更加順手,當然,國內的朋友也更容易一些。

  下午兩點半,問了二十幾個在MSN上的好友,結果很出人意外,那些英文好的、靠英文喫飯、正在海外留學的,都讓我用中文寫;而那些英文不怎麼好的、國營企業的,卻都讓我用英文寫。噢,值得說一句的是,我的那些Linux朋友,都建議我用英文,他們算是那些英文好也贊成我用英文寫的人了吧;當然,native speaker的英文應該更好,也更會贊成我用英文來寫,特別是Kitty。

I am always thinking the reversion of my website, either combine the three websites together or keep the current situation. And another problem is that to keep using English for the weblog, or totally change it to Chinese? The website will have more foreigners if it’s in English and vice versa.
I asked more than twenty buddies on the MSN, the result is a surprise. The friends who are living on English, are studying overseas and speak English well all suggest me to write the articles in Chinese (maybe they think my English is too poor). Other friends from state owned company and those poorly English speakers all suggested me to use English. All my Linux friends encourage me to keep use English; I think the native speakers will do that also especially Kitty.

博客昇級

blog upgraded from 2.61 to 3.0D

For working as a beta tester, which I didn’t do any test work, I got an email from the developer of MovableType this morning. The developer announced that the newest version of the blog system is released, I downloaded it and upgraded. The new version has more beautiful layout for the backend control panel and more clearly designed menu.

70-290 Review Day 1: Introduction and briefing

I started reviewing the MCSA/MCSE Exam 70-290 Managing and Maintaining a Microsoft Windows Server 2003 Environment Self-Paced Training Kit today. The first chapter is just a briefing introduction of Windows Server 2003, nothing interesting and just something like product brochure. The difference between different versions of Windows Server 2003:

 

Web

Standard

Enterprise

Datacenter

SMP (symmetric multiprocessor)

2

4

8

32/64

RAM (GB)

2

4

32/64

64/512

Clustering

 

 

8

 

  • Microsoft Metadirectory Services (MMS), which enables the integration with Active Directory
  • Hot Add Memory
  • Windows System Resource Manager (WSRM), which supports the allocation of CPU and memory resources on a per-application basis

Networks were created on the day when the first user decided he or she didn��t want to walk down the hall to get something from another user.

tree vs. forest

  • Multiple domain models create logical structures called tress when they share contiguous DNS names.
  • An Active Directory forest includes all domains within that Active Directory. A forest may contain multiple domains in multiple trees, or just one domain.

The only computers or users that will be affected by a policy are those that are beneath the OU to which the policy is linked.

Above sentence is a citation from the book, it is a typical sentence from American computer manuals and guides, it is always wasting time to read such sentences.
Related link: http://www.microsoft.com/windowsserver2003